Oh, Pompei

Where do I even begin?

And yes, in Italia, it's Pompei. Not sure when the English-speaking ilk added the extra "i".

More to the point, Pompei had the effect of rending my heart from my chest and spoon-feeding it back to me in tiny, delicious morsels. Yeah, I'm really impressed, if you can't infer.

I got into the city at about 10am, found a decent hotel with Internet a fast as I could, then dropped my bag and headed to the Scavi (ruins).

Well, first I had a quick lunch of a calzone stuffed with cheese and tomato, then fried. Oh yeah, fried. It was just as tasty as it sounds, and molto economico, as well.

Here, of course, is me, looking uber chic and very smug, in the ruins of Pompei. I spent probably seven hours there, and I have about 200 pictures, so I'll just give you the highlights... though there's really no such thing, in Pompei. All of it is mind-blowingly amazing.

Of the plaster casts, I think this one is the most touching. People, trapped in a moment, the shadow of their fate cast in plaster for the milennia to review, is beyond the scope of words. The attempt, in vain, to shield one's face from the onslaught of doom... I can only imagine. But in this anonymous person's demise, the eons can feel that one moment, that emotion, to be broadcast to those who are willing to hear it. Disturbing, heart wrenching, belissimo.

For my Father, the Faun. A replica, (the original is in the museo in Napoli) but beautiful, indicative of the once free and vibrant spirit of a city now locked in an endless minute.

I love how now, I can spot an olive oil mill from a mile away.

Oops! How did this get here?!?! But really, if you didn't realize that Pompei also has erotic frescoes, you're missing out. And lurid though the subject matter may be to some, they are nonetheless, captivating.

"Cave Canem" or, beware the dog, tiny tiles laid into a floor in the entrance to one of the villas. It has everything, humor, whimsy, beauty... I wish I could have caught better light for the photograph, but alas, this must suffice.

"Venus emerging from a shell" literally brought tears to my eyes. You turn a corner, into a unintentionally verdant and stately villa, crushed by the mighty power of Vesuvius, but somehow remarkably intact, and she greets you, with her innocent, vibrant eyes, her adoring cupids gazing at her intently, after centuries still enraptured by her beauty.

I could wax philosophical about Pompei for years and still never do justice to what must have been, yet somehow remains, the most beautiful city human hands have ever created. If ever you get the chance, drop everything and go, it is a truly life-changing experience.

On the lighter (and more acidic) side of things, Pompei also has the biggest lemons I have ever seen in my life. And the purveyors are happy to oblige an excited limone fan who wants a few pictures. I mean, wow. That lemon's the size of a cantaloupe! I just can't wrap my mind around it...

Though my heart was still reeling from the Scavi (and remains so now) I decided to pop into the Pompei duomo... please don't miss this! It's free to get in, and the interior is nearly entirely gilded. After wandering through the ruins, this took my breath away, and I just so happened to wander in during service when the congregation was singing "Ave Maria"... bellissimo!

After a shower and some homework, I got a recommendation for a good mid-range restaurant, and it did not disappoint. Above is veal scallopinne pomodoro, with buttery potatoes and chard. Perfection, I languished in every bite. Paired with the local wine, made of grapes grown on the very slopes of Vesuvius that once brought destruction to Pompei, Baccus makes good by amassing earthly pleasures in the city's sidewalk cafes.

During dinner, I conversed in a mix of English, Italian, and German with my waiter and the couple at the table next to me, who were visiting from Amsterdam, One thing I have noticed, is that if you mention Orvieto to anyone who has ever been there, their eyes light up (even in Pompei!) and they rave about the town, then put their hands over their hearts and sigh; "Oh, the Duomo!". Yeah guys, it's that good.

I'm still reeling from this amazing day, but I do have to catch an early trena domenica... Sicilia! (Sicily) I'm going to be in Catania, by the slopes of another volcano, Etna, for the next two days, then head to Siracusa to check out their Roman and Greek ruins before heading back to my Etruscan town. Please don't feel too sorry for me, I'm a professional :)

Buena notte, ragazzi!